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Articles
and Photos by Q. May All rights reserved ©2001-2003
Last trips April 2002, 1999, 1998 |
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Directions to bicycle the Loire River Valley, France, and the Châteaux of the Loire:
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For general information on the Loire Valley, including its geography, history,weather and main tourist sights, please refer to Part I of this articleGeneral Information. For information on organizing your own bike trip, including accommodations, bicycle renting, and train transportation, as well as recommended circuits of 3 to 8 days near Tours and Blois please refer to Part II of this Article. Please follow this link for an explanation of the author's traffic ratings.
Option E, Loire Valley Long Point-to-point Itinerary:Start: La Baule (or at Nantes or Angers). Distance: From La Baule, with a Brittany day ride, to Orleans you'll ride about 530 kilometers320 miles. Possible extensions up to 1,500 miles. You are a serious biker, or a group of serious bikers, and you would like to follow the Loire River on a longer trip, passing through several different regions of France, or even beyond. Which direction should you do it in? In summer at least, you should probably follow the sense of the itinerary and ride upriver. The grade is unnoticeable (less than 1/10 of a percent), except far upstream, and you will have the prevailing winds at your back. On the other hand, there is much to be said for finishing a tour at the beach in La Baule***, and, for early spring trips, the good weather usually occurs when (cold) winds from blow from east to west. Needless to say, obtain maps, and plot your route ahead of time. La Loire à Vélo: French authorities are supposed to be working to create a long-distance, signposted, bike-friendly bike route along the Loire, inspired by the Danube bike route in Austria. Called "La Loire à Vélo" (the Loire by bike), it is supposed to utilize minor highways and newly created bike paths, with connections to major tourist sights. Work is supposed to be completed by 2006. The author, in late March of 2002 saw few indications that work on this route is underway. Cross Europe Route: An across-Europe bike route is supposed to follow the Loire as far as Digoin and then cross Burgandy, Jura, to Basel (Switzerland), from which it will follow the Rhine and the Danube, through Germany, Austria, and Hungary to Budapest. The total biking distance from the Atlantic to Budapest, without side trips, is roughly 1,500 miles (2,500 kilometers). Inspired by this concept, yet to be realized, the author, from the general description found on the Internet of the planned European route, and from the study of maps, has come up with an itinerary than can accomplish the same goal now. Long-distance bikers who wish to ride the Loire River Valley as the first step in a cross Europe bike tour of one or more months to Alsace, Switzerland, Germany, Austria or Hungary, should follow the River as far as Digoin, 620 kilometers (370 miles) up the Loire. From Digoin, the author suggests you follow his itinerary described in this link ; itmainly runs along, and nearby, canals. It ispossible to bike across France further to the north, saving two hundred miles; however, such a route would encounter many hills, and take longer. The Loire bicycling itinerary, being quite long, is divided into several subsections. Sections of the Itinerary:The Atlantic and Lower Loire
Valley:
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Clicking on any photo enlarges it. Clicking on a red bar provides an even larger version. |
The Atlantic and Lower Loire Valley:Arrive by train in La Baule***, a Victorian seaside town with a wide, beach. You may need to ship your bike ahead by three business days. Another solution is to buy a "housse" (see information in the beginning of Part I of the article or in Bicycle Touring in Europe, Part 3. You may wonder why the author has included La Baulea town that isn't on the Loirein this itinerary. The answer is that La Baule is only 8 miles (14 kilometers) from the mouth of the Loire, in the direction the Loire flows; that it feels entirely different than anywhere on the Loire itself; that it provides a wide choice of lodging and restaurants, which is not true at the actual mouth of the river; and that the author personally much enjoys the town and surrounding villages. Please see the description of La Baule*** under "Best Towns and Cities" in part one of this article. There are two luxurious hotels, and many others, as well as a one star restaurant. You have a choice of 25 campgrounds nearby. The author recommends you stay two nights, and bike the tourist circuit described under La Baule in "Best Towns and Cities".
Ride in the eastbound bike lane, the entire length of the beach in La Baule (while admiring the view). In Pornichet, there is no point in continuing along the shore on D292, which is hilly, and shielded from ocean views. Therefore follow the bike path along side D92, which is a left turn at the end of the esplanade. (The author, who rode rather along D292, picked up a bike path coming from the west along D92, which he followed into Saint Nazaire, so he believes it is the same same one that he saw along the road leaving Pornichet.) In Saint Nazaire*, the bike path ends at a park along the water with some interesting fishing nets on booms. You have your first view of the Loire, and the lengthy Saint Nazaire Bridge. Saint Nazaire does have some hotels and a campground. Ride east along the shore. You could turn left and ride through the town, but the author highly enjoyed (albeit on a weekend, with very light traffic) riding through the naval yards. To do so, cross a drawbridge; the road turns left (north); turn left again, and immediately right; you cross another drawbridge (good views of submarine base and of St. Nazaire bridge); a third drawbridge shortly appears on your right; cross it; the road turns north. You can now follow this road north until it ends at a main street back in the town. Turn right (east). Follow this road a few blocks to the main highway leading to the Loire Bridge, which you definitely don't want to take. You turn left at the circle, curve right to pass under the highway, and curve right again to join highway D100, with a wide shoulder. Traffic was very light when the author rode here, but on a weekday it might be moderate or heavy. When the bike path starts up, unless the traffic is very heavy, you might want to stay on the much faster and smoother road. Just before the bridge over the railroad track, be sure to get on the bike path. After the bridge this turns right and leads down to some tiny country lanes. Do not cross over the track: turn left just before it and follow the tiny lane. In about 0.5 kilometers, turn right on a lane that leads to Donges (1 campground). The fastest route is probably to stay on D100 as it bypasses the town of Donges. The author enjoyed passing through Donges: to do so, after bypassing a couple of left turns, do turn left . If you ride by the church and continue east, with a left jog, on tiny roads, you will eventually emerge at D100 near the village of la Mègretais. Turn left. In a couple of kilometers, at la Morrais, you will be able to turn right across the rail tracks. Follow little roads to Lavau-sur-Loire, Bouée, and then by D93 to Saint Etienne-de-Montluc, which is a town with some hotels and a campground. In the region, there are also hotels and a campground at Santenay. From Saint Etienne-de-Montluc, the main road is D17, and at the Y, left on D101. But this may have moderate traffic. So you can follow the little road north of this to Pociou. In any event, you want to turn south towards Couëron, not on D81 but on D26, which is a couple of kilometers further east. If you went through Poiciou you will be on the right road. Take a left at Moye towards La Siniere and Saint Herblain and follow (from D75 on) an excellent bike lane, all the way into Nantes (about 55 kilometers from Saint Nazaire by these back roads). Should you wish to stay in modern, plain, very inexpensive hotels (20-30 Euro per night), or should the hotels in Nantes be full when you call ahead, you will find a few of these hotels just north oft the intersection of D75 and D201. Bicycle lanes run along D75; the detour north is about a kilometer. Nantes*** is a large city of 250,000 inhabitants, and a major port. It has a large selection of hotels and restaurants. There is also a youth hostel and a campground, accessible by bike lanes. The tourist office, just off your route through town, on the left in a square old building across from a plaza, can provide biking maps and directions.. The ducal palace and the cathedral are two of the most important sights. Assuming you are not detouring to a hotel in Nantes, here is how to bike through the city: The bike route you have followed into town arrives at the Loire River in the heart of the city. The bike lane, as well as the road and the tracks curve left, heading northeast, leaving the river. You should do the same. If you follow the tram tracks, you will see the tourist office just on your left. In 400 yards (meters) you will come to the medieval château** on your left. Turn left before the edifice, then right over the drawbridge. Visiting the ramparts is free. When you are ready to leave Nantes, just at the far end of the château (and before the railroad station) take a right turn leading up onto a bridge (bike lane). Don't make the mistake of branching right opposite the château, and riding under the bridge to the station. Cross the bridge, and as soon as you can do so, make a U-turn. Ride back toward the bridge in the bike lane on the other side of the street, branching right just before the bridge, until you reach the tracks. Turn right, a bike lane starts up, and you curve right along the far side of a boat basin. Where the highway comes in from a bridge on your right, you cross, turn left and follow the bike path out of town. Where the roadway ends at a traffic circle, and the bike lane turn lefts, you do not. You stay straight onto a little street, and in a short distance reach a meandering bike and pedestrian lane, inaccessible to automobiles, alongside the Loire. This provides delightful riding. You continue on this bike-pedestrian path for about 12 kilometers to the town of Maures. For the last kilometer you ride on the main road (very light traffic). The continuation road along the railroad tracks in the same direction is suitable only for mountain bikes... You could choose to avoid Nantes altogether, by bypassing it to the North: Before Saint Etienne-de-Montluc, turn left on D49 and follow this through Vigneux-de-Bretagne to Sucé-sur-Edre (one star restaurant). You could choose to overnight southwest of Sucé, in Orvault, a Nantes suburb, which has a hotel with a one star restaurant; or in Sucé there are a few rooms above the Cordon Bleu restaurant. To continue,, from Sucé-sur-Erde follow D37 until it comes to the Loire. Turn left onto the bike-pedestrian path, and follow to Maure, about 4-5 kilometers. However, I see no reason to bypass Nantes, because the town is interesting, and because the wide bike lanes provide protection from traffic. From Maures, cross the bridge to the south side of the Loire. Turn left on D751, which had very light traffic when the author rode there. The first 6 kilometers are flat, then the road becomes very hilly for 5 kilometers to Champtoceaux*. Champtoceaux has a fine site, a nice promenade with views, several hotels, a campground, and a Michelin one star restaurant. After Champtoceaux, D751 stays hilly for 21 kilometers (until St. Florent le Vieillight traffic). Take D210 for 15 kilometers along the Loire on a levee to Montjean-sur-Loire for a change of view, very light traffic, and flat riding, even though it is 2 kilometers longer. The terrain becomes rolling to Chalones-sur-Loire (9 kilometers). Around the town the traffic can be light to moderate, though elsewhere it is light. There is a campground. You leave town on D751 by crossing a long bridge and curving around a hill. I recommend a short detour here: Just before the bridge over the train track, a road Ys right and leads uphill through charming countryside with very light traffic. By bearing left, in a few kilometers you rejoin the highway, which has risen to the same level. The terrain is rolling to Murs Erigné (22 kilometers form Chalonnes-sur-Loirelight traffic until Rochefort-sur Loire, then light to moderate traffic). You could perhaps avoid some hills and traffic by taking D132 at Béhuard, but a local resident advised the author otherwise.) Turn left here toward Les Ponts-de-Ce. To bypass Angers, turn right on D132 just before the river and then follow D751 (shorter, hilly, somewhat heavier traffic) or D132 again to Gennes (hotel24 to 27 kilometers). |
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The beach at La Baule. In the other direction, it runs just as far. Although people swim, the water temperature is not warm. |
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Wide bicycle lanes run on both sides of the main road beside the beach. Views of the beach and water are unobstructed. The suggested Loire route starts on the other side of the street, and runs the length of the beach, as seen in the first picture. |
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One of the highlights of the tourist circuit described near La Baule (under Best Towns in Part I of the article) is the village of Kerhinet in the Briere National Park This building is the inn, with rooms and meals serving regional specialties. |
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At the entrance to Saint Nazaire are a row of these fishing shacks, in various states of repair. |
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On your left are the ship dry-docks. Ahead is the Saint Nazaire Bridge which spans the Loire estuary. |
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A Nantes cafe in the midmorning. The Nantes Château is worth a quick visit. |
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The bike-pedestrian path that begins a short distance out of Nantes. The Loire is on the right, just out of the photograph. |
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This photo of the Loire between Nantes and Angers, shows the river in its full glory. |
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On the south side of the Loire, the terrain can be hilly. Here, vineyards lead down to the river.
Photos of the Loire Châteaux may be viewed in Part I of this article.. |
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Public Gardens in Angers. The Chateau of Angers, and some of its incredible tapestries, may be viewed under "Best Chateaux" in Part I of this Article. |
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The author took no good photos in Saumur, but the town has charm and the Château** appears interesting. |
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Chinon, perched on its ridge with the old town below, as seen from across the Vienne river. |
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Orleans, seen from the south side of the Loire River. |
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Gien Château, which is now the Museum de la Chase (Hunting Museum). |
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A painting in the Hunting Museum of Gien. |
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Apremont-sur-AllierA partial view of the gardens, with the Château in the background |
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A typical village home in Apremont-sur-Allier, bedecked with flours. |
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View of the Cathedral in Le-Puy-en-Velay. This photo comes from the town website. |
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