Directions to bicycle the Luberon Bike Route, and to cycle from Provence to the Cote d'Azur (French Riviera)

The Luberon Bike Route:

Nature of the Ride: Why is the Luberon region of Provence so appealing? Think of small fields tiled into a mosaic under a bright southern light, splashed between low mountain ranges only 20 miles apart visible to both the north and south. Visualize villages strewn along the high points of the hills with the mountains as backdrops, , each of unique architecture, filled with climbing vines and flowers. Imagine small paved lanes and roadways, linking the villages, with no traffic. Imagine the odor of unpolluted air, scented by lavender, thyme, and aromatic berry carrying plants that form the shrubby garrigue on the hillsides. Imagine succulent meals in small restaurants, accompanied by inexpensive but fabulous local red wines. Think of colorful markets full of produce, and artists studios and galleries chock-a-block with oil paintings in bright reds, yellows and lime green.

Please visit the Provence Page for many photos of the hill villages of the western Luberon.

Below: Eastern Luberon valley with Grand Luberon Mountains

The Luberon region extends from Cavillon eastwards in a valley between the mountains, drained by the Coulon River (also called the Calavon River). Apt is its capital, a pleasant town full of shops and offices, but also of traffic, and not particularly appealing for a cyclist. The northern, southern and eastern edges of the Luberon are formed by a mainly wild mountain massifs. To the north are the Vaucluse Mountains, or plateau, and to the south are the range called the Luberon Mountains— "Petit Luberon" in the west and the "Grand Luberon" in the east, the high point being the summit of the Mourre Nègre at 1125 meters (3,600 feet)..The eastern edge of the Luberon is formed where the northern and southern mountains join. The name Luberon is also applied to the villages on the south side of the Luberon Mountains, which spill down to the great Durance River, but generally, these villages are less well known.

No first visit to the Luberon should miss the hill towns in the western part of the Luberon valley. The Provence page of this site provides directions for linking the Luberon to a bike tour of Provence's Roman heartland . Avignon is a day's ride away from these hill towns via the gateways of LÍsle-sur-la-Sorgue and Cavaillon. The marked Luberon bike route, discussed below, misses the villages on the northern side of the valley, such as Gordes and Roussillon, so if this is your first trip, you will want to make detours to see these villages.

When to Go: Late spring or fall. The dry climate of this interior valley leads to extremely hot summers and cold winters. The mistral wind may enter the valley in winter and early spring. See the Provence page of this site.

Attractions: The Provence page of the site discusses the touristic villages of Menerbes, Gordes, Roussillon and Bonnieu, and the Abbaye of Sénanque. Other picturesque villages abound.

The Luberon Bike Route:

Known in French as the "Tour du Luberon", this signed route on lanes and minor roads provides fabulous riding, almost completely without traffic, through many picturesque hill villages for four to six days of intermediate cycling A pdf brochure in French, part of which is reproduced just below, indicates signage, elevations, and the route. It may be found at the URL: http://www.parcduluberon.com/iti/popup/images/Lubvelo.pdf . See the commentary in the blue colored area below.

Biking from the Provence to the Cote d'Azur:

The author and a friend explored a route from Provence to the Cote d'Azur at Cannes during the May of 2003. It was a fabulous trip, suitable for bikers willing to tackle steep ascents in mountainous terrain. Highlights of the trip were the big sky countryside east of Manosque*, the town of Moustiers-Ste-Marie**, the Gorge du Verdon*** (deepest in Europe), and the Riviera hill towns***, and the descent to the Mediterranean at Cannes***. Details on the itinerary follow below.

The general route ridden by the author is the shortest, and, except between Grasse and Cannes (that is, the last 15 kilometers) almost without traffic in the fall or spring. It is also, the wildest, and one of the most beautiful and interesting.

It would also be possible to take the much longer, much less mountainous, but fairly boring route from Provence to the Riviera: Manosque to Draguignan, and then continue southeast to the coast at St. Raphaël. The coastal route from St. Raphaël to Cannes would be quite beautiful, but full of traffic. Or from Draguignan, one could turn northeast in the duller interior to Fayence, but would have to cross a range of high hills before reaching the coast at Cannes.

When to go: As for Provence, the late spring or fall. Even at elevation, the summers are very hot. In winter, there can be snow.

How to Bike it: Organize your own trip.

I. Cycling the Luberon Bicycle Route

To print itinerary, select the text below, and choose 'print selection'.

Please follow this link for an explanation of the author's traffic ratings.

Starting Point: Cavaillon Railroad Station. Or join the routeselsewhere in the Luberon, as described on the Provence Page.

Ending Points: For Luberon Cycle Route, the railroad station in Cavaillon , or continue to Aix-en-Provence, or to Avignon.

For the point to point trip to the Cote d'Azur, the Cannes railroad station on the French Riviera.

Maps, Route Map and Lodging: Navigate to the following website in English with all the information you'll need on the Luberon bicycle routes: http://eng.veloloisirluberon.com. Download maps as necessary. There are two side circuits off the main circuit, if you wish a longer trip. Note especially the signage for the clockwise and counterclockwise directions.

You may wish to obtain the IGN 1:60:000 map "Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon", which shows the entire area of the Luberon, with the bicycle route indicated in a blue-slate color. Plan the length of your days, and make advance reservations.

In a typical year most accomodations in the Luberon sell out in advance. The internet sites http://www.provenceweb.fr/f/vaucluse/hotels.htm and http://www.luberon-news.com/lbbf.php are excellent sources of hotel information, and on related pages, information on chambre d'hôtes (bed & breakfasts).

If you are staying in hotels or chambres d'hôte, and circling clockwise, initial stops might be Bonnieux, Céreste or Forcalquier (or both).

Bike Repair: Cavaillon, Bonnieux, Apt, Céreste, Forcalquier, Manosque, perhaps others on south side of the Luberon mountain chain.

Tip: If this is your first trip to the Luberon, the author strongly recommends taking an extra day or more to visit Gordes and Roussillon, before picking up the route at Ménerbes.

Cycling from Provence to the Côte d'Azur— from Avignon to Cannes

Be sure and reserve lodging well ahead in Provence (including the Luberon) and Manosque, unless your calls indicate it is not necessary.

Maps: For the Roman Heartland of Provence: IGN Top100 Map #66, 1:100,000 "Avignon-Montpellier". For the Luberon as far as Moustiers-Saint-Marie: IGN Top100 #60 "Cavaillon, Digne-Les_Bains" 1:100,000; for the remainder of the trip to Cannes, IGN Top 100 #61, "Nice, Barcelonnette"1:100,000.

Or: For the entire area: Michelin #528 French Riviera (or #245 Provence Côte d'Azur—same map as #528), 1:200,000. (This one map has all of the information you need for the entire trip, but lacks the tiniest roads, and is slightly less clear than the IGN maps.)

Plus: For the descent into Cannes, Antibes, or Nice, IGN 3643 ET "Cannes, Grasse, Côte D'Azur", 1:25,000.

Author's recommended itinerary:

Day 1. Arrive and visit Avignon***: See the Provence page for details.

Day 2. Avignon*** (leave via D97), L'Ile-su-la-Sorgue, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse***, Gordes*. The route if flat as far as the Fontaine-de Vaucluse, then it climbs almost 300 meters (1,000 feet) to Gordes* in about 10 kilometers. Total ride via back roads, about 44 kilometers.

Or divide this day into two very short but pleasant ones, at L'Ile-sur-la-Sorgue. Or ride from Avignon*** to Arles*** on back roads, from Arles to St. Remy* via Les-Baux-de-Provence***, and from St. Remy* to Gordes* taking three days. See the Provence page for details.

Day 3: Gordes*, Roussillon*, Ménerbes*, Lacoste, Bonnieux*. From Ménerbe* to Bonnieux* follow the Luberon Bicycle Route (see details above). About 35 or 40 kilometers, depending upon the route taken with several long climbs..

Day 4: Bonnieux*-Apt-Manosque, stopping at villages along the way (about 60 km without side trips). Follow the Luberon Bicycle Route as far as Céreste. Ride on the main road to the intersection of D907 just south of Reilanne (or you might want to follow the bike route to Reilanne, before turning south). Climb to a pass (Col du Montfuron) at 649 meters (about 2,000 feet), and descend without pedaling for 7 kilometers into Manosque*. The old town is worth a visit. Traffic is light to medium surrounding the old town, very light within it, but heavy on D907, where you will ride tomorrow, leading down from the city to the autoroute.

Day 5: Manosque* (crossing the river and onto D6), long climb and then flat to Valénsole (food available in the morning), D56 (fair surface but almost no traffic to Puimoisson. The entire plain, with lavender fields and distant mountain views, is exposed to sweeping winds. Hope they are not against you. Continue on D56 to D952. Left turn to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie**. (Total distance is about 50 kilometers).

An alternative route from Manosque*, after crossing the Durance River, is to turn southeast on D4 and D8, crossing a high ridge, to Grénoux-les-Bains*, and following D952 northeast through Riez to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie** (about 50 kilometers). This route has much more traffic, but is shielded from north winds, and has bigger towns. Consider a rest day in charming Moustiers-Sainte-Marie**.

Day 6: Moustier-Sainte-Marie**, Corniche Sublime of Grand Canyon*** of Verdon, Comps-sur-Artuby . About 64 kilometers with one very long climb (710 meters, or 2,330 feet in about 13 kilometers or 8 miles) and many lesser climbs...some wonderful descents too, and great views with the sun behind your back. Or, alternatively, take the easier northern corniche to Castellane* (about 45 kilometers).

Day 7: Comps-sur-Artuby (or Castellane*) via D21 to the Route Napoleon N85, and from there to to Cabris and/ or Grasse. (50 to 55 kilometers). There are several moderately long climbs, but most of the Route Napoleon, and almost all the last 13 to 17 miles of it is downhill. (Strongly consider blocking your lane by riding in the middle of it; on the right there is no shoulder and a major drop-off -- so there would be risk a car might try to pass you too closely.) In the unlikely event that you find the Route Napoleon choked with traffic, detour via Caille, Andon, and Pont-du-Loup to St. Vallier-de-Thiey and then on to Cabris* or Grasse**. . (About 60 to 65 kilometers via the detour.)

Day 8: Descent from Cabris* or Grasse** to Cannes*** (or possible descent to Antibes***) on the Côte d'Azur*** (20 to 26 kilometers in traffic to Cannes***, about 40 in heavier traffic to Antibes***).

The author suggests on weekdays a start before 7:30 AM (or just after 10:00 AM), and on Sundays before 9:00, to avoid as much traffic as possible. An alternative if you wish to avoid some traffic is the train that runs relatively frequently from the rairoad station in Grasse to Cannes. (As Grasse is located on the flanks of a steep hill, and has many one-way streets, check a map of Grasse carefully before riding to the train station or setting off on the route below.)

From the intersection of D4 from Cabris and N85 from Grasse, ride downhill in traffic on N85 almost 2 kilometers to the "Quatre Chemins" traffic circle. The first exit at the traffic circle n (which you do not take) leads to a four lane highway to Cannes. You want the second exit, a minor road that heads towards Pegomas (possibly marked D409). (The exit beyond this, N2085, which you do not want, is the Route Napoleon, also for Cannes). Stay on this same road, almost always downhill, through Pegomas. Almost down the hill, at the end of the road, turn left on D9 towards La Bocca. Be sure to bear left, still on D9, when it veers off the main route. At the end of this road you reach N7, which you can follow left into Cannes, but a more enjoyable and fitting route is to take the first available right turn, passing under the rail line, and turning left on N98 along the shore. The sholder is not always available, so you should be prepared to block your lane if need be. Follow the Mediterranean into Cannes***. The Railway station is about 5 blocks in from the coast, behind the Palais des Festivals, which is just after the Old Port.

Return to Paris or your final destination.

To List of Best European Bike Tours

Home Page