Planning and undertaking a European bike trip.

Bicycle Touring in Europe

Part III: Bringing, Renting or Buying a Bike

On this page:

Bring Your Bike, or Rent, or Buy?
Bringing your Bicycle from Home
What kind of Bike?
Customizing your Bike?

On related pages:

Why Bicycle in Europe? How much will it cost?
When to Go, By Commercial Group? Or, by Personal Tour?
Trains and Bicycles.
Maps, Guidebooks, Hotels, and Tourist Site Information Sources
What Should You Pack? Security, Traffic, and Safety.
How far will you ride?
Best European Cycling Trips: Author's ratings, and when, where, and how to do them.

Bring your Bike or Rent or Buy?

The following discussion assumes that you have no special needs in bike size or equipment:

The bike touring companies, in general, maintain their bikes well, so, if you are taking a tour with them, you probably should rent from them. Be sure to specify carefully what you need, both for the bike, and for any accessories, such as saddlebags or baskets. Be sure to carefully check out your rental bike. Errors of sizing and of maintenance do occur.

For a self-organized tour, the situation is much more complicated, as the following table suggests:

Options:

Renting bicycles in Europe:

France: Commercially renting a good bike for touring is hit or miss, with the possible exception of the Loire Valley the Dordogne, and Provence — areas where there are many bike tourists..  See the individual tours on this Site for possible recommendations. The author has never seen a city store or a railroad station in France, over the years, consistently rent good quality bikes for touring — bikes that you would love to ride for a week or more, and the situation seems to have gotten worse. With effort, you probably can find a suitable touring bike for rent France, but be sure to go over it personally with the renter to fix any faults, and, if at all possible, bring saddlebags, etc. from home.

In Paris the author visited many bicycle rental shops in June 2007, and while there is a large selection of city bicycles, there is no good source for renting a touring bicycle that you would love to ride.  The author did succeed in renting a heavy hybrid with a front shock absorber, 35 mm wide tires, a bike rack, a water carrier and a trip computer at Paris Velo, 2-4 Rue du Fer-à-Moulin, fifth arrondissement (telephone 01 43 37 59 22), and the shop also has some lower quality road bikes for rent. The people who run this are getting older, so this source may not be available in the future. The author has personally observed that the shop keeps irregular hours, so call before you go, and also don't be surprised if the owner is late for his appointments. Call before you go there. They have helmets, but not saddle bags, pumps, or any kind of special pedal.  Bring these with you.  They only have two computers, so if your group is larger than two, bring your own.  Be sure and check your tires for integrity and pressure before you leave the shop.

If this shop can't help you, the only other shop with hybrids and road bicycles, not of great quality, is Allo Vélo, 20 Rue d'Hauteville in the 10th Arrondissement, tel. 01 40 35 36 36.

Both stores have Internet sites and email addresses.

For other French cities, try looking on the Internet or in the French yellow pages (url: http://www.pagesjaunes.fr; search terms: vélo, bicycle, cycle, motocycles, location de …). Mountain bikes of decent quality are available for rent in many resort areas where they are likely to be used, such as valley towns in the mountains or towns near the shore. A few shops in these areas also carry road bikes.

The author has recently heard of certain rental companies that will deliver bicycles to renters through large swaths of France. Probably any rental company would do it if you pay them enough. Obviously, though very convenient, this service will not be inexpensive, particularly if you are renting only one or two bicycles. In addition to the renters mentioned in this site's Loire and Provence pages, there is said to be a good renter that transports bicycles in Burgandy.

A better bet than rentals, if you haven't brought a bike from your home, and if your self-organized tour will be several weeks long, used be to buy a new or used bike, and sell it when the trip is over.  The stores in Paris asked by the author state that they would pay 50% for a bicycle sold and ridden for a few weeks.  Inquire.

For a simple purchase, the Giant Bike Store in Paris has a large selection of Giant bikes, (36 bd du Montparnasse, near the Gare Montparnasse, 01-45-44-10-09). Rando Cycles(5 rue Fernand Foureau, near the Metro stop Porte de Vincennes at the eastern edge of Paris,), makes all kinds of bicycles to order starting at a price of 2000 Euros. The Rando Boutique, next door, tel. 01 40 01 03 08, has an excellent selection of saddle bags and German bicycle accessories. In France, several chains of cavernous sports discount stores have a selection of fair to moderate quality bicycle components and accessories: Go Sport, Decathlon, and Intersports. There are many other bicycle sellers in Paris - see the yellow pages (under Motorcycles, cycles...). The richer suburbs, such as Versailles, also contain good bicycle shops.

Keep in mind that France is a "Latin" country, and that the bike stores tend to be small, and be manned by cycling enthusiasts. Do not be surprised,therefore, if stores close on Sundays and Mondays in the summer, or even for August , when local business is slower, and the routes of Europe beckon. Call before you visit.

Germany and Switzerland: It is a different story in many parts of Switzerland and Germany. I have seen well-maintained, good quality bicycles for rent in railway stations - though heavier and wider-tired than I personally would prefer..

For a general discussion of German biking see the Internet site: http://www.bicyclegermany.com.

On the Net there is at least one bike shop listed in Amsterdam, renting touring bicycles. Be sure you ask for a 7 or 24 speed bicycle if you want one. Most riders in the Netherlands are content with heavy-duty 3 speed city bikes, even in the countryside.

For other countries, try the Internet or their yellow pages.

Bringing your bicycle from home:

When bringing your own bike from the USA, call your airline in advance for rules and prices. Some biking associations may have negotiated better terms for their members. Also bring your own saddlebags, helmet, and other equipment, as buying good quality saddlebags, at least in France, is difficult (in Paris, not in mid summer, try the Rando Boutique).

Allow extra time at the airport when returning home, perhaps even an extra hour, to obtain a bicycle box at the airport, and to put your bicycle in it.

Airport arrival in Paris: Follow this link for a discussion of how to transport your bike from either airport of Paris into the city, or how to bike directly into Paris or elsewhere from Charles De Gaulle Airport (also known as Roissy), or Orly Airport.

Germany, Switzerland, Holland: Key cities, such as Frankfurt, Zurich and Amsterdam have train access from the airport. The Amsterdam airport is linked to the city by bike paths. See the section on trains.

What Kind of Bike?

If you are planing to use a bicycle for European touring that you already own, chances are that it can be adapted to serve. See the next section on customization. If you are looking to buy or rent a new bike explicitly for touring, your choice depends upon the type of touring you wish to do.

Touring bikes: The author has never seen a true touring bike (heavy frame, dropped handlebars, front and rear saddlebag attachments) for rent in Europe, and not for sale either, but they probably exist. In the USA touring bicycles are available. The following (out of date) site lists some brands and some recommendations: http://www.faughnan.com/touringbike.html. Also look at http://www.roadbikereview.com, entering the search term touring. The true touring bicycle (which can easily cost well above $1,000 in 2008) is best for heavily loaded camping tours, with front and rear paniers; or for day after day of all-day riding. They have a long low wheelbase, excellent for carrying weight with comfort. The author has been told, but cannot confirm, that their geometry does not allow for the easy substitution of upright handlebars, or at least not of handle bars as high as those of hybrids or city bikes. Since some models already come with a rear rack and good wheels, touring bicycles may not be much more expensive than other alternatives. Some have steel frames, which are said to be the most comfortable as they absorb road shock better; the trade-off is that they are heavier and slower. In some parts of the world, in less rich countries, a steel-framed bike will be the easiest to repair. Touring bikes sell much less often than road bikes, racing bikes and mountain bikes. Manufacturers such as Trek and Cannondale, to name but two, have only a model or two. You may have to search around for a store which has models you can demo.

Hybrids: The author, who does not carry camping equipment, personally rides a hybrid bicycle (in French: Vélo tout chemin or VTC). His aluminum bicycle cost about $800 in the late 1990's and has been upgraded with stronger wheels. Comarable bicycles produced recently, probably over $1,000, generally come with stronger wheels.

The author's hybrid allows a somewhat upright position for a good view of the countryside, has a strong frame, and is much more efficient than a city bicycle, but less efficient than a high-end road or racing bicycle. For those who prefer more speed, it is possible to find, or to fit, a hybrid with drop handle bars. Some road bicycles (see below) now come with drop handlebars that are broader than in the past, allowing for good stability. Most commercial bicycle touring companies that provide baggage service—and those who don't as well, furnish hybrid bicycles.

Unfortunately, many hybrid bicycles today no longer have any brazes for attaching racks or paniers. Most certainly do not have any provision for attaching front paniers. It has become much more difficult since the author first wrote this site to find a hybrid bicycle especially suitable for touring. Today's hybrids usually have heavy shock adsorbers in front, and the front wheels are placed a bit further back than would be ideal. This wheel mounting position makes a bicycle "twitchy", like a racing bike—that is, somewhat tiring to steer for long distances. The additional weight of the shocks has to be pedaled up hills, and they cause the bike to be slightly less eficient. By all accounts shocks make the bike more comfortable for the arms and the buttocks though. Usually the components on these bicycles are of mediocre quality.

Some companies make high end "performance hybrids", which do not have shock adsorbers, and do have quality gear train components. These can serve as a good base to create a "touring hybrid". They typically cost $1,000 or more in 2007. The wheels are typically the newer, 20 spoke, "performance" wheels. The concensus now is that they are stronger and more durable. However, these wheels are more difficult to adjust by one's self, or in smaller rural bike shops if something goes wrong.

The high end "performance hybrids" also usually have very low handlebars. In this respect they resemble a racing bicycle. The author prefers, as do many tourers, to have his handlebars even with or above his saddle, for more riding comfort and a better view; he thus recommends fitting these bikes with new stems to raise the handlebars (for probably less than $50.  It is also important to make sure that the bicycles have brazes for attaching racks and fenders ; clip on fenders have not proven satisfactory in the author's experience.

Road Bikes (Racing Bikes): It seems that in present nomenclature there is no longer any distinction between a road bike is a racing bike. Compared to touring bikes and hybrids, road bikes have advantages and disadvantages: They have less wind resistance and are more efficient and lighter, which is particularly helpful on smooth mountain roads and against headwinds. They are definitely much faster overall, especially if you ride in a down position. If you do mostly ride in the down positions, on the other hand, you can not see as much, and your neck may become sore. Road bicycles can have too light a frame and tires too narrow for any bumpy riding— such as on many bike paths, tow paths, rough lanes or dirt roads. Also, a true racing bike is less stable and unable to carry baggage. Loading a road bike with baggage would also ruin most of its aerodynamic advantages. Therefore, (in the author's opinion) racing bicycles should only be used for touring that is (a) entirely on road and (b) supported by motorized baggage transport (or that requires almost no baggage). Unless you are a very strong rider, or going only on completely flat tours, you will need to have gears and derailleurs designed for racing changed from racing to hybrid or even to mountain bicycle ratios.

City bikes: In the Netherlands, most native riders, even in the countryside, favor city bikes (heavy, less efficient bikes with completely upright (inefficient) riding positions and one to three speeds). That seems to be because distances are not large, because paths are often rough, because most of the Dutch enjoy ambling along, and because these bicycles have little to adjust or to go wrong. City bikes appeal also because, in Holland, bicycles are very frequently stolen; being low in cost, city bikes are less likely to be "borrowed", and are cheaper to replace.

Folding Bicycles: A number of makes of folding bicycles are available, often costing up to double the cost of a non-folding bicycle, for example the Rodriguez W2, the Ritchey, the Montague, the Dahon, the Bike Friday, or the Brompton. To the author, the advantage of these bikes is convenience of (and perhaps lesser cost of) transport, when going for day trips in good weather. This is particularly true of the ones with tiny wheels, that collalpse in less than a minute, but do you want to go on a bumpy road or for a multi-day trip on these tiny wheels?  The author has seen them on the road, but they were slower and less stable than bigger wheeled bicycles.  The ones with 26 inch or 700 mm wheels are roadworthy (and off-road worthy), but what about mounting fenders or front and rear paniers. Well you can, but then they will not fold into their suitcases. To take the suitcase with you on your trip, you need to pull it on a trailer behind your bicycle, perhaps loaded with your extra clothes.  This can be inconveninet and cumbersome, though the author has seen happy riders on the roads of Europe with this set-up. Given their advantages and disadvantages, folding bicycles seem best for fair-weather day trips: You check into your hotel or hostel, friend's house or campground, leave the bicycle suitcase there, and take off by bike for the day. But if you are going to travel every day, bike in the rain, or finish in a different city than you start in, most of the benefit of the folding bicycle will be lost.

Customize your Bike?

Wheels: In northern Europe and even in France and Switzerland, there are bumps, dirt forest lanes and occasional cobblestones to take. As noted above, the bike paths in the Netherlands tend to be particularly bumpy. So, unless you are taking a short tour, or unless your total bicycle loading is low (as for a lightweight rider without baggage), or unless you are limiting yourself entirely to main roads, or unless you already own a strong bicycle, you should carefully consider upgrading your bicycle wheels and tires. These are the parts of a bicycle that take the most abuse.

The author knows from personal experience that the wheels sold a pre 2000, even with relatively expensive, strong-frame, U.S.-made hybrid bicycles, were insufficiently resilient for anything but main-road use. His wheels had problems both with the rims and the spokes after only a few hundred miles of touring use. Stops were required almost daily to change or adjust spokes (unprofessionally!), and soon thereafter the rims had to be scrapped. Since the author upgraded his wheels (and spokes), he has logged over three thousand touring miles with no wheel problems.

Carefully consider upgrading older bicycles with strong, double-extruded, aluminum touring rims fitted with 36 heavy duty, 2.0 mm thick (English 14 gauge) stainless steel spokes, or with today's new wheels. The new wheels with 20 spoke, hardened spoke, deep rims with offset spoke holes,are much stronger than before, and do provide sufficient strength. The are, however, difficult to adjust properly by one's self. There are wheel tuning videos and written instructions on the web.

Tires: Do not fit your rims with tires less than 25 mm.. They are well adapted to racing, or for one day road outings on smooth roads, but not for loaded European touring. Depending on whether the tour goes off the road, the author has 700 x 28 C or 700 x 25 C tires with a minimal flat tread. He inflates these to their maximum recommended setting. These are the smallest acceptable widths. His total loaded touring weight (including himself and all baggage) is about 220 pounds (100 kilos). Flats have occured less at a rate of less than 1 per 1,000 miles ( roughly 1,700 kilometers), and traction has never been problem. (Note that the author usually walks his bike on dirt roads that have many pointed rocks, and over lengths of cobblestones.)

You may wish to consider a slightly wider tire, for example a 700 x 32 C or 700 x 35 C. These can carry more weight with less the risk of pinch flats (if inflated at the same pressure as standard for 28 mm tires). Or, with no increase in load, and less pressure, they provide a more comfortable ride with no increase in the chance of flats. In either case, because of these tires' increased width, depth and weight, your ride will be somewhat less efficient. These wider tires are particularly suitable if you are carrying a very heavy load, for example for camping, or if you are planning to ride often on rocky dirt roads or cobblestones; but they serve also for typical road conditions if you willing to make the tradeoff of more comfort for a less-efficient ride.

For road biking, the best tire tread is no tread, i.e., completely smooth. Knobby tires are best for sand, loose dirt, and mud. Refer to the technical discussion of tires below.

Fenders: Another "customization" you may wish to make to your bike is to fit it with fenders. This will permit you to ride in rain without spraying yourself. It is quite pleasant, in fact, to ride in a light summer drizzle. And even if you don't plan to, the author's experience suggests that occasionally, plan it or not, you will find yourself riding in a heavy rain. As of 2008, the consensus of several bike shops is that quick mounting, detachable fenders do not work properly on roadbikes.

Rack: You will also need a strong rear rack, testing it with panniers to make sure your heels clear. (See the the author's recommendations for rear panniers here.) Some road bikes are sold with an insufficiently strong rear rack included. Don't skimp in this regard. If your load is very heavy, you will want to distribute it among 4 paniers, which may or may not be possible with your existing bike.

Light and Bell: Consider also whether you want a headlight, a taillight and a bell (horn). In some countries a bell is obligatory (Germany, Austria ). In others use of a bell is highly unusual, and will scare people, but still occasionally convient. In Austria, a headlight and a taillight are mandatory; in Germany, a headlight and a tail light are mandatory for riding after dark. You could wait to buy these items locally, if and when you need them.

Gearing: This site makes no specific recommendation as to gearing:. The ideal gearing for a rider is in fact highly dependent upon his or her physical capacity, upon his or her bicycle's total loaded weight, upon its efficiency, upon its loaded aerodynamic qualities, upon the quality of the roads, and upon the steepness of the terrain to be covered. In general though, average riders will not want racing bike grearing for touring.

Most commercial tours provide bicycles with hybrid-touring (typically 48-38-28 front, 11-34 rear), which is sufficiently easy for inexperienced cyclists except on mountainous tours, or even easier, mountain bike gearing (typically front 42-32-22, rear 11-34). If you are an experienced biker, then you probably know what gears you will need. If your itinerary includes hills, do remember to allow for the extra weight of the panniers, and remember the obvious: the steeper the hills, the lower the gearing you will need. (If you are intereted in the mathmatics of bicycle speed and power, click here.)

Technical discussion of tires: The narrower a tire is, the smaller is its road contact surface, its aerodynamic resistance, and its weight. It is faster, but has lower traction.

To provide the same amount of lifting power to support a rider, the pressure (pounds per square inch of tire surface) must increase in inverse proportion to the decrease in tire width. On a bump, a wide tire at low pressure and a narrow tire at a proportionately higher pressure will deflect an equal distance (as there will be the same total pounds of pressure pushing on the road).

When the width of a tire decreases, its "height" (or clearance from the wheel) decreases proportionately. Therefore, the tire is proportionately more subject to "pinch flats", caused by the edge of a rock or other sharp edge pressing the tire against the rim. To prevent pinch flats, riders pump up narrow tires more than proportionally. This works, but results in a board-like ride. With wide (and therefore high) tires, riders can, if they choose, ride at lower total pressures for a bouncier, more comfortable ride and better traction.

Using knobby tires on hard roads actually decreases bike stability, particularly on turns, as the knobs have nothing to bite into. Hydroplaning is said to be impossible for bicycle tires, and therefore water dissipation by tread is said to be unnecessary. Hence,a flat tread, which makes the most contact with the road, is said to provide the best traction under all normally-paved road conditions. For further discussion, please see Sheldon Brown's quite interesting page on tire widths, treads, and pressures.

<Continue to Part IV: Trains and Bicycles.>

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