Articles and Photos by Q. May                   All rights reserved ©2001-2007
Last cycled summer 2001

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Route 5 Coulée Verte towards the Loire châteaux

How to Bicycle Southwest from Paris

Cycle along the Coulée Verte Bike Path, heading towards the Southwest of France

Maps:  Paris map, Michelin suburbs map #21
IGN regional map #20. 

Nature of the Ride:

This bike-route can be an amusing day drip for riders who have already tried Routes 1,2,4 and 6, but it serves also as the best escape from Paris for long-distance riders heading towards the Southwest — that is, towards the Loire Châteaux or the Dordogne. It may also be combined into a several day loop with Route #4.

Starting from the Monparnasse railway station — except for a couple of short stretches on moderate-traffic roads (with sidewalks) — you ride 15 kilometers on bike paths or shared bike/pedestrian paths, more than halfway to the southwestern edge of the constantly growing Paris agglomeration. 

Much of the route is along the attractive and amusing “Coulée Verte” (greenway). The Coulée Verte lies alongside or atop the suburban tunnel for the Monparnasse TGV high-speed trains.  Rolling and curvy, with, initially,  many “bike-only” barriers –  this section is slow going, but traffic-free and delightful.

Once the Coulée Verte ends, if you are continuing southwest, the route follows the Yvette valley on town streets and rural roads with  light and occasionally moderate traffic.  Though the terrain is rolling, this route has the great advantage of avoiding all but one of the long, steep slopes prevalent southwest of Paris.

To return to Paris, you can follow the Coulée Verte in reverse, or choose among three return routes that use bikeways, and a few streets with light or moderate traffic.  All these return routes have one long, steep climb and one long descent.  You can also return by train on the RER B, but not during rush hour (6:30 to 9:00 AM 4:30 – 7:00 PM), (or RER C if you ride as far as Dourdan, but not during the morning rush hour). The best exits from RER B are Denfert Rochereau and the Gare du Nord; for RER C, any exit will do.

Destinations:

Dourdan* and Étampes*. For longer trips: Fontainebleau (loop), Chartres***, Orléans**, the Loire châteaux***, southern Brittany***and the Southwest of France***.


Directions:

To print itinerary, select the text below, and choose print selection.

Please follow this link for an explanation of the author's traffic ratings.

 Start in front of the Monparnasse Railway Station, facing the station.  Go left on the sidewalk of the Avenue du Maine, and turn right into the first through street, Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte (bus-bicycle lane), which in two blocks reaches the Place de Catalogne.  At the far side,through an "archway" in the building, take the wide pedestrian-bike path southeast on Rue Vercingétorix .  Follow the narrower bike-path south along the street and then along the train tracks for 2 km. (As the bike path crosses on a bridge over a road, you may wish to stop and observe the TGV trains passing.)

After crossing over the Periphérique Highway, in the town of Malakoff, the bike path temporarily ends.  Rriding in the street or, more enjoyablely walk or ride— I have seen riders here — on the sidewalk in front of the hotel.  If on the street, enter the hotel parking lot.  At the end of the hotel parking lot the bike path resumes, jogs right, follows by the tracks. When the tracks begin curving left, the bike path ends at a cross street . Turn right into this street, pass under the tracks, (the return route to paris joins here; note that you are between two rail bridges), and immediately turn left into the bike path along the west side of the tracks.  (If, as of September 2002, this particular bike path was very bumpy due to roots; the southbound side of the adjoining street is almost without traffic and faster, so you may prefer to ride there.)

In one kilometer, at Avenue Pierre Brossolette, the road and the bike path end.  You now have two choices: The classic route is to: cross this Avenue on foot or by bike, turn left into it, cross under the tracks, and turn right immediately on Avenue Marx Dormoy. At the next street, Avenue de la République, turn right again (sign: D63 – Chatillon) heading southwest, passing under the tracks again.  Just after the traffic circle, at the Y, bear right into Rue Semard.  In two blocks, when the street becomes one-way against you, bear left onto the cycle path (sign: Coulée Verte).

The newly signposted alternative takes more time and concentration, but avoids all but two blocks of roadway. At the end of the bike path turn right on Avenue Marx Dormoy/Avenue de Paris and ride two blocks on the road (heavy traffic) or sidewalk (in the future possibly only one block). Turn left (small sign: Coulee Verte). Turn right in one block at the bike path sign, riding by residences on a narrow, curvy bicycle/walking path. Eventually there is a section of hard-packed dirt. Keep following signs, and you will cross Rue Semard, and continue as above.

In either case, after a short while the bike path dead ends at a bridge; turn left, cross the bridge, and turn right on the resumption of the path.

The Coulée Verte, or greenway, that you are now on lies over or nearby the underground high-speed TGV train tracks. Despite the presumably level tracks underneath, the bikeway itself is hilly and curvy.

You will need a bit of skill to distinguish the bike path from the pedestrian path, particularly at the beginning of the Coulée Verte:  Normally, it is the asphalt path. In 2002 the bike path had new signs stating that it was a bike/pedestrian path, recognizing the reality that pedestrians often chose to walk on it. Barriers against motor traffic are initially frequent, and impair your speed. Further south, they are fewer and the path is also straighter.

Two side trips are possible at the little crossroad, without a road sign, named “La Grande Voie des Vignes.”    Before reaching this crossroad, you will (in order) have observed the Chateau of Sceaux in the distance on your left (if the weather is clear and you are watchful), have passed long buildings on the right, have observed that the park has widened, have gone by a playground on your right, and then have passed by a short railroad wall on your left. (If you come to the underpass (or the exit to the right, the Avenue de la Division Leclerc — Return Route A, you have gone too far.)

Side Trip 1: At this unsigned crossroad, if you turn left, to the east,  you ride 400 meters, downhill, to a traffic circle and the entrance gate to the beautiful Sceaux** park, worth a visit.  Toilets are on the right, just in from the gate.

Side Trip 2: If you turn right, you ride slightly uphill to the interesting church of St. Germain l’Auxerrois, and to its north, village services. From the church, or from the Coulée Verte exit at Avenue Leclerc, a circuit leads back to Paris in about 16 kilometers :  See Southwest Return Route A.

To continue southwest, follow the Coulée Verte southwest under the expressway.  The path makes a U-turn to the right to climb up a hill, before curving back to the south. Approximately 14 kilometers (8.4 mi) from  the Montparnasse railroad station and 3 km (1.8 mi)from Avenue Leclerc, the bike trail arrives at the  rotary (“rondpoint”) of the 19th Mars 1962 in the town of Massy.  It is the end of the Coulée Verte. 

To return to Paris by RER B train, you may turn left, cross under the tracks on the little street Rue d’Estion d’Orves, then immediately turn right for the station of Massy-Verrières.  You may take your bike back into Paris on the RER B line if it is not rush hour (6:30 – 9:00 AM or 4:30 – 7:30 PM). In Paris your easiest exit points are Denfert Rochereau or the Gare du Nord.

You may bike back to Paris here by the enjoyable, but in part very steep, Southwest Return Route B, in about 18 kilometers (11 mi). Another option is to return to Paris retracing your route along the Coulée Verte.

You should probably not ride further southwest, unless 1) you are starting a long distance trip; or 2) you want more exercise, and you don’t mind riding in light to moderate traffic through the streets of towns, and returning to Paris by bike, in part on dull bike lanes nearby major highways on Return Route C, or by RER or by train.  In evening rush hour, the author would not ride southwest from this point for any reason.

Continuation towards the Southwest:

To continue southwest, after the rotary of 19 Mars 1962, proceed along Avenue Des Martyrs de Soweto (elevated tracks on your left) to a traffic circle, then on Avenue Allende for two blocks (tracks still on your left), and then turn left on Rue Raymond (D988, marked on the map as D156) —tracks still on your left.  You will pass by the Massy-Palaiseau and Lozère train stations. There is a combination grocery store/sandwich to go on your right, next to a bar/restaurant with toilets (2 km from the end of the Coulée Verte).

Stay straight, following the sign for Palaiseau.You cross over/under some tracks and a highway. Where a street joins from the north (Boulevard Diderot), bear right onto a one-way street (Rue du Général Ferrié and then the Rue de Paris) that leads through the middle of the town of Palaiseau. After the town (about 4.4 km — 2.6 mi from the end of the Coulée Verte) you rejoin the highway (D988) and ride through Villebon. As the road is narrow, and the sidewalk is smooth and continuous, I recommend you ride on the sidewalk.  Stay on this route (Avenue du Général Leclerc, then Avenue du Général De Gaulle) for 3.6 kilometers. 

Although it is possible to take a curvy bicycle path for a short distance through Orsay in the nearby woods, it is much faster to stay straight on the road, which divides and then is one way with you (Avenue de Saint-Laurent). In any event, in Orsay, when you come to the major cross street of Avenue de Maréchal Foch, you must chose whether to return to Paris by Southwest Return Route C in about 25 kilometers — if so, turn right, ride down the hill, and cross the Yvette stream.

Or, if continuing southwest, turn left on Avenue Foch. Turn right in two blocks (avoiding D988 traffic) past the Orsay station (RER station for Paris), and continue along the rails for about 1 km where you rejoin D988, the Route de Chartres.  At the first rotary, if you bear right, you will rapidly arrive at the RER station of Bures (the last RER station for Paris on this route).

Whichever direction you are going, you may wish to stop at a nearby park with a small lake. To go there, turn right at the Avenue Foch intersection; at the bottom of the hill, just before the Yvette stream bridge, turn left under the tracks. The park is on your right.  To continue from the park southwest, ride left (south) up the hill; the road passes under the tracks and rejoins the main route, along the tracks.  To return to Paris by Southwest Return Route C, retrace your steps to the bridge over the Yvette, and turn left – north — crossing the Yvette.)

Towards Orléans or Chartres

To leave the Paris metropolitan area, follow the Route de Chartres. At the traffic circle, you must bear left, still on D988 (the Route de Chartres) which now, with the first moderate traffic of the route, goes up a steep, 3 km-long hill.  In the village of Gometz-le-Chatel pass through the traffic circle at D35, and soon turn left onto highway D40-D131 (sign Janvry).

If you are going towards Rambouillet or Chartres, don't turn at this intersection; turn right at the next intersection, the Rue de Gometz.   From here follow a route that you will have chosen using the IGN map mentioned at the beginning of this section or another map. The author has not ridden in this direction, but according to the topographic map he looked at, the route seems relatively flat and should be without much traffic.

To continue towards Orléans, after your left turn onto highway D40-D131, in 300 meters (0.2 mi) at the traffic circle, turn right on D131 towards Chatnte-Coq and Briis-sur-Orges. There is still a bit of traffic, but soon you will be on quiet roads. You cross the Autoroute and the Atlantic TGV train line (that was under the Coulee Verte!). (You could of course stay on D988 until just after Limours-en-Hurepois, and take D838 left until Dourdan, for a faster but more traffic-filled trip.)

At the end of D131 near Le Marais, make a right turn onto D27 and follow it for 5 km (3 mi) through le Val Germain until Saint-Cyr-sous-Dourdan..Turn left on D838, and climb moderately to Dourdan; or you may find it pleasant, as the author did, to turn left before D838 at the tiny road for les Loges, to cross the hill, and then follow D116 to the right into Dourdan*, 51 km from the start.of this route You may wish to spend the night and visit the museum.  RER C trains link Dourdan to Paris’ Austerlitz station in one hour (and beyond).  Eighteen kilometers southeast of Dourdan is Étampes*, which has a main-line train station. If desired, you could ride eastward towards Fontainbleau (see Route 4). The author has ridden this route as far as Dourdan.

For Orleans (130 km from the start) one possible route from Dourdan follows D5, D17, D118, D19 and D102 to arrive at the village of Gidy, whence a road leads into central Orleans.  A bicycle path crosses the Loire River in Orleans, near the rail tracks, on the St. Jean bridge.)

Southwest Return Route A – 16 kilometers, total circuit 26 kilometers

From the church St.-Germain L’Auxerrois (which is a few blocks off the CouléeVerte — see above), follow Rue Lavoir south one block, then turn right on Rue Des Vallées.  Pick up the bike path along Avenue de la Division Leclerc.  (The bike path on Avenue de la Division Leclerc can also be joined directly from the Coulée Verte, by bearing right before the underpass that is just south of the “Grand Voie Des Vignes” , and turning right at the street.) At the end of the steeply uphill bike path (2.7 km from the church, 2.9 km from the Coulée Verte) at the double traffic circle of the Carrefour du 11 Novembre, turn right join the bicycle path along Avenue Langevin (sign: D2), and continue as indicated in the section Continuation for All Return Routes.

Southwest Return Route B – 18 kilometers, total circuit 32 kilometers

From the rotary (rond-point) of 19 Mars 1962, leave by the second right (sign: Igny) onto the bike path along the Bièvre stream, heading west.  The bike path eventually crosses to the left side of the road and runs beside two ponds.  When you come to the opening in the fence on your right, cross the road and enter the Rue de Paris (sign: "Verrières-le-Buisson, jumlée", etc.).  Bear right at the fork, riding uphill.  At the traffic circle you must continue slightly to the right on the road named Rue d'Estienne d'Orves. Pass by the one-way streets, Taking the first permissible left turn, and ride uphill to the end.  Turn left again, now heading back westward, on Rue de la Boulie.  At the next intersection, turn very sharply right on Rue d’Amblainvillers, now heading northeastwards.

When you arrive at the first four-way intersection, turn left.The Rue Des Gatines climbs steeply uphill, bears left, and continues very steeply uphill, into the forest.  Stay left at the Y, then turn right in one block, at the top, and follow the Route de Verrières à Antony, with jogs, northwest to the Carrefour de l’Obelisque. Bear north on Route de Plessis Picquet (the third exit from the rotary), and take the first right on the Route de la Mare-a-Chalot (which loops over the highway), and then turn right again onto the Route de Plessis Picquet (which was interrupted by the highway).  When you arrive at the double traffic circle at the Carrefour du 11 Novembre 1918 (8.4 km — 5 mi from the Coulée Verte), continue in the same direction.  Thus you will need to cross three streets to arrive at the bicycle path on the east side of Avenue Langevin (sign: D2).  Follow the directions in the Continuation for All Return Routes.

Southwest Return Route C – 25 kilometers, total circuit 49 kilometers

Ride downhillon Avenue Foch, crossing the bridge over the Yvette stream. Then ride steeply uphill in the town of La Guichet.  Branch right at the Y onto Rue Louise Weiss (perhaps breifly Rue Racine), then turn immediately left (the bike path starts in one block).  At the traffic circle, continue straight across  into the Rue de Versailles (sign: Saclay).  The long, steep climb out of the Yvette valley continues; a bike path (bike lane at times) re-starts in 100 meters.  At the end of the bike lane, do not bear right into the little road that goes under the highway, as it dead ends.  Continue riding steeply uphill on the main road (light traffic).  At the traffic circle, on top of the hill, take the bike path exit (second possible exit, sign Saclay).

When the highway curves right, continue straight along a one-way lane to the north, until the traffic circle « le Christ de Saclay », where you bike left around a parking lot and come to a pedestrian crossing.  Turn right, enter the circle, and take the second exit (towards the east) riding into a parking lot between buildings..  The road becomes one way against you, but at this point a bike path commences on the left of the highway, which is named the Route de Bièvres – N118.

Stay on the bike path until its end, then continue straight ahead descending on Rue de Petit Bièvres into the village.  At its end, turn right, and  climb east and north out of the village of Bièvres on D533 until you reach the highway underpass on your right.  Pass under N118 here, turn left, and take the bicycle path north with the highway on your left.  Just before the carrefour (intersection) at le Petit Clamart, there is a 200 meter stretch where the bicycle path does not exist (nor is there a sidewalk), and one must ride in traffic on the right lane of the busy highway. Fortunately, the traffic is forced to slow down for an intersection.  Pass under the superhighway ahead. Towards your right, on the north side of the superhighway, is another bicycle path towards Châtenay-Malabry (effectively a right turn from the direction you were going).  In one kilometer, you will arrive at the double traffic circle of the Carrefour du 11 November 1918. Before the traffic circle cross the road in the pedestrian crossings northward, then after 50 meters cross the Avenue Langevin to the right in other pedestrian crossings.  Follow Avenue Langevin (sign: D2) north, using the directions in the Continuation for All Return Routes.

Continuation for All Return Routes

Follow Avenue Langevin (sign:D2) north on the bike path. Cross under D906.  The bike path eventually turns left into the Clamart Forest.  Turn immediately right onto the a road, the Route Carré aux Pièges.  Pass by a dirt route, then bear right onto the Route de la Justice, and at the rotary turn right again onto the Route de la Mare.  The forest route emerges at the Place du Garde.  In the same direction, now on Rue Roosevelt (henceforth light traffic), ride one block to the traffic circle, then continue in the same direction (using the second exit) on Rue Des Rochers. As you enjoy the lengthy down hill ride, keep straight ahead, as this street becomes successively, Rue du Moulin, Rue Pierre, Rue Gambetta and Rue Jaurès. You arrive at the train station in Clamart.

Turn right on rue Hébert, then immediately turn left, and follow this street to the tracks, where, along the tracks, heading northeastward,it becomes Boulevard de Stalingrad.  After a few cross-streets, this veers to the right, and comes to a large traffic circle.  Turn left here on Rue Avaulée, paralleling the tracks, but several blocks away from them.  At the end of this street, turn left, and ride back to the tracks on Rue Paul Vaillant.  Turn right on Avenue Ablada, and ride two blocks, one cobblestone, one pavement.  At this point you are between two railroad bridges; you were here before!  Pass under the bridge on the right, and turn left.  You are on the bike path leading along the tracks to the Monparnasse railway station!  Follow this back to your starting point.

(The author thanks to Matthew Belmonte for sending in info regarding this itinerary.  A route description - including photos - of Belmonte's trip from Paris to Nantes in the western Loire Valley, beginning with this itinerary, can be found at : http://www.mattababy.org/~belmonte/Home/Bicycle/Loire/.)

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Montparnasse Railway Station
Clicking on any picture enlarges it.
Clicking on a red bar beneath a picture loads a very large version
Place de Catalogne.
Exit through the passage in the middle of the building.
Bike path with roses.
TGV approaching.
Beginning of the Coulée Verte.
Walking path view in the Coulée Verte
Bike path and biker.
View from Coulée Verte of Sceaux château.
This playground is shortly before the cross street Grand Voie Des Vignes.
Watch for this intersection, the Grand Voie Des Vignes.
Restful Park of the château of Sceaux.
Rondpoint (rotary) of 19 Mars 1962. Take the exit on the left for the RR station. Take the exit to the left of the tall building to continue Southwest.
The same rotary, more to the right. Go straight ahead on the bike path, which goes right at the second street, to take Return Route B.
Continuing southwest along D988.
Park along the Yvette river in Orsay.
Highway D988 after Bures; the end of the Paris agglomeration.
Return Route B: Leave the bike path here; cross and enter the town of Verrièrse-le-Buisson.
Return Route C: Farmland on the plateau above the Yvette.
Return Route C: Along the Route de Bièvre
All Return Routes: The Carrefour du 11 November 1918. View from Return Route C. Your exit is in the far back left.
All Return Routes: Rue Des Rochers is straight ahead. From here you descend into the Parisian basin.